Maine’s Classic Rite-of-Spring Paddle
The St. John is only a few miles west of the Allagash, yet the two rivers have entirely different personalities. Without large headwater lakes to store water, the St. John rises and falls quickly — sometimes a foot or more in a single day — and is normally canoeable only in late spring.
We drive in to Baker Lake, often just after ice-out. Water level permitting, we start at Fourth or Fifth St. John Pond and make our way for a day or two through the narrow and challenging upper river before reaching Baker Lake. From there to civilization at Dickey, the river grows from a swift stream to a wide, powerful waterway. There are numerous sets of class I and II rapids and no portages. Two long class II–III rapids add excitement to the last days of the trip.
The upper St. John is flanked by woodland rich in wildlife and in Native American and logging history. Once a major water highway, remnants of long-gone settlements can still be found along its banks. Our mid-May trip is usually bug-free and full of the signs of early spring — ice-cold water, patches of snow in the shade, and budding wildflowers. Weather on this week-long, 110–130 mile trip can range from 85 degrees to below freezing.